Iron Man Hulkbuster Cosplay #34 | Arm Mechatronics | James Bruton



hello is James who makes robots like Oni okay this is part 34th my Hulkbuster suit this is Ashley a costume you can wear I've been working on this for nearly a year and last time I worked on some of the pop-out pieces so I've got these panels open and there's going to be things inside last time I worked on the shoulder cannons which pop up and I worked on a linear actuator with 3d printed parts and I also worked on some coding with Arduino to get those cannons to open and fire now I've got various functions in the suit each arm is controlled by a joystick so the upper arms are moved by my real arms the bottom of the arm from the elbow down is mechatronic and there is a two-button joystick in each upper arm and based on those combinations of button presses how long you hold them for and if you press combinations and together over on one side or on both sides together that will activate different functions of the suit so this time we're going to work our way down the hands and look at the other animatronics I previously put into the cuff as well as sorting out that hand gripping motion and the weapon my teacher this week in case you're wondering is a Marvel t-shirt with lots of characters from the Marvel Universe all over it here we are with the right hand which you can see just here I've got this bit of animatronics in the cut here which already has the servo mounted to hinge backwards I've got a motor here which currently pulls this string and is intended to pull the hand and also pull it closed but I really wanted it for it to make a fist and then be released but there's quite a lot of tension here and I've just basically got a cordless screwdriver motor with a bearing and a pulley which is a really high power enough to pull that cord so we need to do a different mechanism here I've got my Arduino here and some wires running down from the upper arm where there's a power supply and also the joystick which activates things and that in turn needs wiring into the body to activate those shoulder cannons and the unibeam the first of all I need to fix the mechanics to try and pull this up into a try and pull this up into a fist or at least have it in a fist and then be released so perhaps we can fire the hand rip also and some other things when that hand is activated so we needed to basically remove some tension off this motor and come over but much better mechanism my plan for that mechanism for that drill motor to pull the hand is to remove tension by using what's called a block and tackle so basically we can use several pulley used to pull the rope through as pictured in this Wikipedia picture you can see that means one man can lift a really heavy weight there are various surprises of this basically the rope goes round the police several times which means on each stroke of the rope if you like between the pulleys you can pull up lots of rope and so you pull a lot of rope and the pulleys move together only by much less amount because you're pulling that rope round lots and lots of loops however many you do and the more loops you put in is another great picture basically the less effort it becomes so it's a bit like leave ring or gear ratio but with ropes and pulleys here's my block-and-tackle setup cycle three pulleys there in fact I need six in total and I've got my two blocks there and of course one has an anchor at each end because that's where the rope has to end the other one of course goes to the motor so these are about 50 mill wide and I think the pulleys are about 12 mil white something like that so we're going to get those printed on the lulzbot mini and then we'll get them assembled here are my blocks and pulleys I fought the Phillies quite free moving in there they're just mounted on a three mil piece of steel axle that's wedged into the frame and I've used to drill bitches to loosen them up on the police so they roll freely so this one is going to be anchored at the top of the arm frame with that hole this one is going to be anchored to the hand where I've got that cable and attached to at the moment and the actual cable will come off the motor nor go in here and we'll go around several times eventually it gets anchored to this bottom hole that means we've got six times as much cable to be pulled up as if we just put it round the pulley and straight into the hand and eventually these will get slowly pulled together as the cable gets pulled up the motor won't have to exert so much effort that top block is going to be anchored right up in the arm and the bottom one will be attached here so we can have a look at the existing motion of that hand I've got some power wide in and I can show you how it works it's not actually too bad let's just see if I can activate that so that's opening and it's not too bad when things don't get caught and that's opening again I don't have to run the motor for very long to actually activate that and I'll see this quite a lot of strain on that pulley which is pulling the hands directly at the moment so here is what it does now I've got everything strung up and you can probably see one of the blocks here and the other one is at the top here and basically this cable is 50 pounds breaking strain shark fishing line which I got a fee BAE obviously it's still attached to the pulley it's also doubled up so there's a loop on each end which is attached to the pulley and it's attached to these things with cable ties so I'm just going to punish them so you can see the hand and we're just going to try and close that hand up so as you can see that take significantly longer to close and the motors a lot happier as you can probably hear is drawing less current and also as a result of that there's not too much tension here but due to the fact I've got this kind of leverage around the cables the hand is able to hold a fist so it can permanently hold a fist without um you know back driving and unwinding the motor which is what happened before if I want to unwind it and that's just a simple obviously we'll have a motor controller on here controlled by the joysticks so that you just unwind all the way to reveal the repulsor so let me just close that again there we go in that camp or quite a tight fist without too much strain on the motor which is really what I wanted to achieve so obviously everything I'm doing I'm doing too both hands so I'm actually making twice the effort that you see on video I guess so let's just check that one opens there we go that works pretty well one thing I do need to do is probably put some end stop switches in but we'll look at that next so here is my end switch solution I'm going to have a switch on each hand when it swivels backwards now we'll just switch a switch and they'll be screwed to a block fix to the back of the hand so that's very easy but the others is not that easy to mount them so obviously I need to measure the tension of those pulley systems and also need something around the elbow which I don't really want to crash into hard end stops so what I've done is some got some micro switches with really long levers on them and I threaded a piece of steel bar through the holes there to make another lever which obviously means some when those two levers are pushed together then that switches the switch and then what I've done is tied into these cords and I've done a whole load of them they're another five and that basically means that obviously as the cord is pulled it gets narrower as you'd expect and that switches the switch so now I can string these up so one of those will be attached to the block can to the wrists inside the actual forearm so as it reaches its tension it knows to cut off the motor the others are going to be around the elbow pulley system and some other fixings that I've got in the upper arm I've attached those switches to each hand I've got one just here we just going to switch when the back of the hand comes back and the other one is tied on this string here so as the hand gets pulled up that gets stretched and eventually that gets switched when it reaches the limit so those two switches are quite critical because there's only one button functions who open and close the hand which is going to be gripping both joystick buttons together and that will make you do a sequence of flipping backwards the repulsor firing on the wrist on the palm of the hand there and then closing again so those limits which is really neat to work I'm also going to be installing some on the elbow for the limits of travel there which aren't very big in fact and those aren't so critical because these are going to be driven by the joystick buttons you can see the joystick just in there so when I press and hold those buttons if you remember that's going to drive the arm in the directions back and forth and then obviously those other joystick functions so a combination of them in short presses will activate the shoulder weapons and also the thing on the cuff there so that's all very well and good I've got my Arduino installed and I've put some little bits of strip board onto pin strip to plug in so I can easily solder wires to them but I need some sort of motor driver to drive this motor and also the one that's behind which drives the actual elbow so I've got some modules here on the right I've got some l2 9h dual h bridge drivers which are going to operate the motor which operates the hand now these are both very similar modules they've got the same chip on there just on different styles of boards you can get these on eBay quite cheaply and from all good electronic retailers and basically each one of these will handle two amps on each Channel there are two channels on each one so the board itself will handle four amps of current which is more than enough for that screwdriver motor and that's going to be at 5 volts and the way these work is you basically wire in your supply and 5 volts and you've got pins there to drive each channel in direction then you just while your motor to these terminals when you get a current in basically it will trigger the motor in either direction you can also trigger them with PWM to do variable speed control and you can drive stepper motors with them as well which is quite useful the other modules I've got here are relays which I've made up on protoboard so I've got a pair of relays and the uln 2803 which will are now enough current to be driven out of the arduino to switch the relays that wouldn't be otherwise possible to switch those relays directly from the Arduino outputs and basically this is doing a very similar thing it's basically a relay each bridge with relays which one when one relays activated it will drive the motor in one direction when the other one is activated it will drive it in the opposite direction when they're both off it will stop so these are going to be used because they will handle higher currents and that will be used for the elbow motor so I did a very similar thing to this on like r6 droids 2/3 to late conversion there's quite a detailed explanation of how that circuit works in that video so I'm not going to go over it again but check out that video if you want to know more about that and I use them basically quite a few pairs of these to drive the three motors for the center leg and the shoulder motors in my droid so I need to solve all these wise on and various other things I've just attached my helping hands there with a clamp so I've got something to hold the wires and I can't in the ends and get everything soldered up onto those bits of strip board on the Arduino right so far I've wide in the l-29 8h bridge and otherwise the Arduino and the switches on these hands so this is floating around of it what I should find is I can activate the hand by bringing the inputs high and the ends which is actually are in all that wire essentially so when it reaches the ends which it cuts off the signal to the h-bridge driver and that stops the motor and it means you can only go back the other way this is very similar as I said so what I do with my r6 droid so if I pick the right pin here to make the hand close so it reaches the end stop and they slip there it stops and back the other way there we go the normal position will be closed and then it will open and close to activate the repulsor okay and I can hear the motor straining a bit there so I'm not sure with the two amps supply I've got the supplies five volt is up to it but as you may have noticed only used four strings on my block and tackle so I could actually string that round again and out be 50% less load so we'll leave it like that for now and we'll see how it goes so I've still got the other side to do in its entirety I've also got both server used to wire in for the cuff things and I've still got to wire in the elbow motors and put the switches on and then I've still got to wipe those wires up into the body to go to the Arduino which controls the unity and the shoulder cannons that I did last time I've wide in the other hand and that works in exactly the same way and I've also done one elbow set of limit switches which I'm going to attempt to show you now the rather hard to see but they are tucks in there so if I move the hand and there's no drive belt or anything on this at the moment so you should be able to hear them clicking there when it reaches its limits these ones aren't so critical cause I'll be physically pressing the button but I do want it to stop at some point because I won't get to see the arm if it all goes wrong I can of course control it manually and guess where the arm is but there cable-tied on it seems pretty reliable and they're just on that big rotational thing which is also the pulley for the motor so I've got one arm here just so I can do that final wiring so we've got all the bits and pieces there we've got the forearm is actually connected via connector to the upper arm which is this one here so that I can detach it for transportation if I need to but I put the relay boarding just there to drive the motor still haven't got the drive belt on but we'll do that shortly so I've got the Arduino the front there and obviously all the wires run up that multi-pin connector the only two remaining wires of the and this is the trigger that runs up to the rest of the body so this will trigger the shoulder weapon with a short press on the back button and if I trigger both of those on each side at the same time you'll find a unit even this is what I did last time basically and then obviously a short press on this button will activate the cuff weapon a long press on either button will activate to the elbow motor and pressing both at once within half a second will activate the hand and the repulsor in the palm so basically everything is controlled from that one joystick and it's two buttons so I'm all coded up and I've got the Arduinos in the arms linked to the one in the body so that we can now trigger the Union beam and the shoulder pods from the joysticks in the arm so we've got the same code on both arms let's just quickly have a look at this so I can drive the arm in any direction I want with long presses there we go so that's up and down with a long press on the joystick I press both buttons together it activates the hand which will eventually buy the repulsor with some sounds when it's back and it will stay back for a bit while that happens if I do a short press on the front button I get this weapon and if I do a short press on the back button there we go the buttons on my joystick a bit dodgy but there we go that fires the shoulder cannon and the other side is exactly the same so we've got exactly the same functionality if I just hit that short button for instance then it will fire the weapon on there so if I go around the back and I press both buttons together on the back button for a short but press then we should find it fires the unibeam which eventually fires white and then gets bright so now we've got control over all of that functionality with just the two buttons on each joystick so I wasn't too hard to code up let's have a quick look at it I did most of it last time but we'll have a quick review of a changes I've done this time I did the code for the body in the last part which is part three three so I have a look at at so basically that takes the inputs and says if you press a lighter than activate the shoulder pods and if you press them both activate the uni-beam in addition to that we've got some more code on each arm which is the code we're looking at now and that was done in the previous part so essentially the way that works is measuring the length of time you hold the buttons so long presses will activate the elbow motor and short presses will activate the weapons and obviously one of these weapons is the trigger to the Arduino in the body the way that works is basically by doing digital reads on those buttons and then basically on each one so if one is 0 their input pull up in fact which means that they go low when you press them so if button 1 is 0 and 2 is 1 which means you press button 1 it waits for half a second 500 milliseconds and then read it again to see how long you've pressed it for so if you're still pressing it then it goes and does whatever and if you're not pressing it it does something else so that's how we've got the logic there to either move the arm or in the case of this button move the servo which activates the cuff weapon the other button has its own piece of code which does the same thing but that triggers the shoulder in addition to that I think got one that says if both the buttons are pressed then activate the hand which is on pins 9 and 10 which is the l-29 8 motor driver and other moments is just doing a delay of moving it one way waiting 2 seconds which is basically how long it takes to move move it back again and set always and outputs to low which turns them off what will eventually happen will there be some neopixel code or some other stuff in there perhaps another servo that makes a firing weapon in that calf so that's pretty simple it's not the best structured code I've used a lot of delays if you have a look at the multitasking example I did for my r6 droid and that's much better structured code and that's explained it's quite some detail in that video so I may well rewrite this code for multitasking at the moment so I can only fire one hand function at a time but I can however trigger the unibeam which has its own Arduino then trigger the shoulder pod while the unity me is still firing then I can trigger the cuff weapon so I can sort of do you thing is that all at the same time basically because there's so many are Joey knows and effectively we've got parallel processing but I can only trigger one thing then the next one then the next one but in the case of the hand and the repulsor moving for instance is tied up with these delays which isn't particularly efficient that's all I've got for this time next time I'm going to be working on the helmet I think and having a look at that mechanism I made before and the other helmet pieces because I think it's going to have to be slightly different now so that it can open now I've got those shoulder pods done I've actually got an event coming up in October this year called DEFCON 4 which is in Southampton in the UK where I'm hoping to exhibit this suit so I need to get as much of the front finished as possible there's still quite a lot to do around the back but it's going to be photoshoots and all sorts of things I'm going to be concentrating on those front panels now I've got these mechanisms and things I can build around trying to get it look like it's almost finished at least from the front so don't forget to check back for more updates on this projects and other projects and also check out my channel for other projects like my r6 Droid and other projects bb-8 and some other things I've been building have a look at the end card which is coming up right now you

24 Comments

  1. Pedro Gomez said:

    donde consigo los patrones para hacer cada parte

    June 26, 2019
    Reply
  2. gta tv said:

    Idiots

    June 26, 2019
    Reply
  3. Cover gun. said:

    쩐다

    June 26, 2019
    Reply
  4. Cover gun. said:

    June 26, 2019
    Reply
  5. Jason njoroge said:

    Give me a shout out its my fist time waching

    June 26, 2019
    Reply
  6. Eden S said:

    how do you gèt in?

    June 26, 2019
    Reply
  7. Wael Srour said:

    Nn

    June 26, 2019
    Reply
  8. bdg909 said:

    this is the coolest thing ive ever seen man you are a very imaginative and smart person thanks for posting all the videos on how you made this i cant stop watching

    June 26, 2019
    Reply
  9. joy putty said:

    👍👏💘💑

    June 26, 2019
    Reply
  10. Marius Keturakis said:

    j

    June 26, 2019
    Reply
  11. bruuno futiarte said:

    i am from Brazil*

    June 26, 2019
    Reply
  12. bruuno futiarte said:

    my name*
    i sorry kk

    June 26, 2019
    Reply
  13. bruuno futiarte said:

    Hello,may name is Barry and i from Brazil!

    please tell me what u are formed, and what motivated you to build your projects

    June 26, 2019
    Reply
  14. Jasper Almond said:

    you should make them for military

    June 26, 2019
    Reply
  15. MC adrianinho zs said:

    Because VC not miniature cars fans of space ships type etarwars

    June 26, 2019
    Reply
  16. JeepieYes said:

    This is some pretty cool shit man.. I am impressed.

    June 26, 2019
    Reply
  17. Xander K said:

    You should make a superman or a batman suit you would do great!

    June 26, 2019
    Reply
  18. sean peart said:

    very cool bro, I very impress

    June 26, 2019
    Reply
  19. heishizixingk said:

    在下佩服

    June 26, 2019
    Reply
  20. FinnGaming Channel said:

    You are the real life ironman!

    June 26, 2019
    Reply
  21. Alejo said:

    Build a batsuit from the arkham knight or batman v superman

    June 26, 2019
    Reply
  22. J Dumas said:

    I hope after he finished the hulk Buster then starts to make mark 43 suit

    June 26, 2019
    Reply
  23. Kathy Burke said:

    are you a boy scout? by the way, its totally awesome

    June 26, 2019
    Reply
  24. Nikos Stavrianos said:

    very nice job james.r u going to make a new helmet?

    June 26, 2019
    Reply

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